¡Te Catché! (I caught you!)

There are many anglicisms in español, "catch" included.  It is time for me to play some "catch up".  The past couple weeks have run away on me! 

The week after visiting the comadrona, we went to the Lago de Atitlan for the weekend, and the following week, I visited a public, primary school in the morning, and had spanish classes in the afternoon.  Studying from 2-7 is so much harder than 8-1, and made for some funny classes...I was brain tired each day, and NEVER could get the day right.  My last day of classes, I got everything right, until I said that it was 2009.  My teacher thought I was witty...not so.  I liked being busy and the students in the school were so amable (likeable, friendly, lovely - the word in spanish fits better)!  It was their last week of clases (they study from the middle of January - mid October), but they welcomed me in anyway, including me in their closing activities.  I taught a bit of english one day, observed another ICA student teach english, listened to their year-end presentations, and went kite-flying!  SO MUCH FUN!

In the past couple of weeks, I have had random, "I love Guatemala" moments.  (Of course, there are the opposite as well, but they seem to be much fewer :)  One of these "I love Guatemala" moments was in the field just on the edge of the city, on the uneven soccer field, with the volcanoes in the background, trying incredibly hard to get the kite to stay in the air, children screaming in support "Hale!!! (pull).  We also worked a bit in the vivero (tree nursury).  I guess the students go once a month to pull weeds.  They were so efficient...me, not so much, but they would come through and do quality control in my section, encouraging me that my side was clean (limpio).  The girls picked flowers for my hair, took hundreds of pictures on my camera, encouraged me to run with their kites.  One boy gifted to me 2 of his homemade barriletes (kites)...SO KIND!  It is normal for them to make their own kites...NEVER, have I made a kite that has flown, but now I want to try! 

That weekend, we visited a coffee finca, and took a trip to the playa (beach)!  It is quite a bit warmer at the coast, and the black sand (from the volcanoes) is HOT!  I saw some poplar like trees on the way to the beach, and I thought of home.  It is funny what will remind you...

That week, I just took classes, and participated in some activities...

That weekend, I went to Mexico with some friends for a couple of days.  We ALL got another 90 days in our passports!  YES!

This week, I also had clases in the morning.  Monday afternoon, another ICA student, Sandra, and I taught our first English class, and have 5 weeks more.  Only one student showed up, and poor Roberto, got too much information!  We had 5 students Tuesday.  We didn´t teach Wednesday, because we went to the graduation ceremonies at a Mayan-Mam - Spanish bilingual school in a town 1.5 hours away.  ICA helped support the school when it was starting.  While the idea of teaching a Mayan language was ridiculed in the beginning, the school is now recognized as a "model school".  Thursday, our students (who sixth graders are from the primary school that I visited) had their own graduation (graduating primary school is kind of a big deal, as not all students have the opportunity to continue.  Students need to take an exam to be accepted into secondary school).  Every Friday, the students are going to have a different teacher, so we didn´t teach, and Monday (all Saint´s Day = big deal) is a holiday.  Therefore, TUESDAY, I hope that there will be even more students! 

Vivero

Homemade Barrilete

Cafe

Volcano in eruption!

Town of Zunil...many organic vegetables are grown in this valley.

¡Recuerdo!

I remember! (FRENCH!  I am speaking more and more in French...it wasn´t present my first month, but now, here it is, and I don´t know why.)  Also.  I remember what we did last wednesday.  Well, someone reminded me. 

Last wednesday...

we went to a comadrona´s (mid-wife) house.  Incredible.  She knows so much, and unlike the private hospitals, she works to serve the women.  I was semi-shocked to learn that if the doctor´s think that a family has money, they will make up complications; suggest a c-section, which cost more money...and therefore make more money.  The comadrona we visited is 37 years old, and has 4 children (I think).  She uses both natural herbs, and ¨chemical¨ medicines to help her pacients.  She also strongly believes in steam baths and masages.  She knows what each plant does, and when she should use them....  She pulled up a weed growing beside the house in her dirt patio.  She rubbed the plant between her fingers to release it´s odor, and passed it around.  I think that the plant acts as a relaxant, but I can´t remember... it is not incredibly creative or innovative, using these plants... It is just using wisely what is around you, what has been gifted to you in your space.  I wish I knew as much about the plants and their potencial uses in Alberta.  I went to a primary school every morning last week to observe what public school is like.  My last day, we went to fly kites (which they made themselves) in a ¨nearby¨ field.  On the way, one of the students was telling me what some of the plants were for.  There may not receive computation or english classes, but they are so wise in other ways.  Too bad the world doesn´t really reward this type of knowledge in Guatemalan students.  It is so important.   

Bye

I don't know how they write it in spanish, but everyone says "bye" a lot! 

1.  I am walking down the crooked, cobblestone street, and some young girls walking on the sidewalk with their mother see that I am an extranjero and they call out to me, "bye!" 
      - That seems kind of normal for me.  I try to speak the language of extranjeros that I meet.
2.  I tell my "mother" Sonia, that I will not be eating supper en casa tonight.  She smiles, gives me a kiss on the cheek, and says, "bye mamita".  (Okay, thanks for letting me know?)
3.  Sonia serves me dinner; I thank her.  "Bye" (Your welcome?)
4.  Carlos doesn't have enough money to buy eggs; Sonia becomes determined to find some dinero en efective (cash).  "Bye". 
5.  I get a grammatical concept in one of my classes.  "Bye".  Good, and moving on to the next grammatical concept. 
6. I am leaving the house.  Usually, it is adios o hasta luego, but I have heard "bye" a few times as well...especially when saying good-bye on the phone.
7.  We are at the market.  We settle on the price for a pinapple.  "Bye".

Generally, I think that it is a "word of conclusion".  "Ok".  "Situation resolved".  "Next, please.", but when learning a language, figuring out the nuances of where these words fit, seems slightly challenging. 

So far, I haven't aquired "bye" skills, but it would be lovely if I did in the next six weeks!

How time flies!

Hola Chicos,

Time has run away on me!  I am going to write down quickly what I did each day, perhaps more for my own memory, than for your interest... hope that I can remember! 

Sunday - Laguna de Chicabal, Artisan´s market, Blue Angel Cafe for pineapple smoothies.
Monday - Lecture on the Mayas and temples that are being uncovered
Tuesday - Trip to Salcaja to see the oldest church in Central America, Caldo de Frutas (strong alcoholic beverage...of which I only had a tiny sip!), and seeing a bit about how how the thread for traditional clothing is prepared
Wednesday - I cannot remember...

Thursday - Went to another procession for the Virgen, and walked around the church.
Friday - Preparation of Pupusas, and of course, eating them together
Saturday - Trip to Lago de Atitlan, boat ride on the lake, swim in the lake (a weird combination of hot spring hot, and cool), San Antonio (visited women´s cooperatives who make clothes), and Santiago (where we visited an idol called San Simon...people go to him to ask for blessings and curses..., hiked a very small mountain, witnessed a pagan ceremony at the top, and visited a mask museum)
Sunday - Visited the market in Chichicastenango and then returned home...

Well, the pausa is almost done...so I should go...will write more later!

Ramblings - a different look

This was originally part of my "Familiarity" post, but it got quite long!  My mind started to wander after talking about the "cottage industry" type business' in Momostenango...and these meanderings are part of my experience.  I am not good at thinking objectively, and my thoughts are rough and quick, still if you have insight or wisdom, I would be interested in hearing (gaining!) it!



There is an opportunity for students to work in a women's prision, here in Xela, with the idea that the students can teach something to the women that will help them when they leave. Another opportunity is working in a local school as a teacher (although in two weeks school is over). I was trying to think of skills that I could teach. I have a high quality education, but as I stood in my room, looking at my clock, I could remember anything. It could be that my education is so engrained, that it is a part of me, or perhaps it would come back if I reviewed. I don't know. It is justs interesting that I am so priviledged, and yet have little "easily accessible" knowledge or skills to offer. I am not complaining, and I am so glad that I went to school, even if I don't remember the facts; it is just interesting, the contrast between hands-on (Momostenango) and the desk-focused learning that I experienced. Both are important, although I think that one sometimes dominates, depending on where you live.
...and some children don't have school at all. Public school exists in Guatemala, but parents still have to pay for supplies and uniforms, and the quality of education is not high, even though the teachers are paid well. Many parents send their children to a colegio which can get expensive, but the education is better. In my classes, there is often a large "conversation" component. This week, my maestra and I talked a bit about child-exploitation in Guatemala as I asked her about her take on buying from children in the park. It was interesting to hear a Guatemalteco's perspective, and she was very blunt about the existence of this issue. Obviously generalizations are just that, general ideas - not 100% accurate. It seems that parents love their children, but sometimes there just isn't enough money if the children don't work. For this reason, you will see children set up in the park with a basket full of gum, chocolate bars, and ciagrettes. No school. My maestra says that she buys if she needs what they are selling. Other children will simply ask for money, which she said is a "red flag" for exploitation. Just the other day, a boy (maybe 7 years old), came up to us in a restaurant, introduced himself and asked us our names...that doesn't really happen in Tofield. I went to the Feria in Totonicapan (45 min) on Wednesday and saw many children and older gentlemen with disabilities. One man was pushing a stroller with two young girls (with disabilities) asking for money. There is a feria in Xela this week as well to celebrate the patron saint. I saw him here as well. My maestra said that the only way things are going to change is for the government to do something. It makes you think though, what part Canada has to play as well. Between language schools, clothing, coca-cola, mcdonalds, coffee, hot chocolate, bananas ... the western world is not far separated from Guatemala or its citizens. This isn't a lecture. It just is. I knew it before I came, but a change (improving living standards here) is going to need more than the GUATEMALA government passing a law. oops. sorry. really, not a lecture...just observations. The sad part is that I am not sure that I am ready to give up my Canadian lifestyle, be it in Canada or elsewhere.
Humans need connections...I think about how exciting it is to meet someone from your own country while abroad, yet while in your country, it doesn't really matter. Values are based on needs; in our own country, we do not "need" Canadian strangers or people from other countries; we "need" things, and thus our connection with other countries isn't often based on human relationships but rather commodities.

And isn't it is kind of absurd how we divide people according to geographical location, and some places have and some do not; some are treated like animals, and others like diamonds (which are really just rocks), and yet each person has a life (intertwined with everyone elses), and each is really - human.  Eek...Sounds cheesy, but in reality, I don't think it is.  (Being helpless in globalization scheme?  hmm.)  Perhaps I think that it may be easier just to live and not to think.

Familiarity

A bridge for KS

Oh how I wish that you could know Guatemala; I want to know it so much better.  Being here sometimes feels like a dream, and other times I feel all too awake, and humbled, but both are good.  Things are becoming more familiar, which is nice.  While was walking to Parque Central this evening to meet a friend  at the artisans' market (which only happens on the first Sunday of every month), I passed this old Victorian house.  I don't know the story behind it, but I am glad that I know where it is.  Near a cafe called Blue Angel, there is this old stone bridge.  It doesn't really serve much of a purpose anymore, but it is old and beautiful, and I like it very much.  We'll walk on it if you come! 

Familiar is good, but it is also easy to fall into a stagnent comfort zone, and stop exploring.  I don't want this to happen.  If you have the energy, could you keep me accountable? 

School:



Language studies are good, but slow.  In class, we are reviewing grammatical concepts that I learned in Canada, but I can't use them well [yet].  I feel like vocabulary doesn't stick, and I cannot understand my family.  I don't like feeling like a slow learner; I want results now!  Poco a poco though, right?  Still, I want to come back to Canada being able to communicate, and I don't know if that will happen.  I think that vulnerability, humility, and patience are the underlying themes of language studies...good, so good.  It really isn't bad; I am learning, and I love it... it just takes time...

                                                                 Family:

I want to introduce you to my family!  Unfortunately, I can't really, as I am not really sure who is related to who.  Hmm.  Sonia is my host mom.  She is wonderful, and tells me not to worry during every meal, as I pull in my chair to make more space, or ask about how to help.  I never do dishes anymore...it could be that I wasted to much water, and am thus banned, but who knows?  Either way, I am spoiled.  Sonia always makes me supper, which usually is eggs and refried black beans with french bread.  Me gusta.  Carlos is Sonia's brother (I think).  Yesterday, I asked Carlos what the bird's name is (which I don't remember), but Carlos thought that I asked what his name was (which I very well may have)...poor Carlos thought I didn't know his name.  At lunch today, he said that he got up at 6:00 am today, with a half-teasing, have not so teasing look...oops, my fault, as I left the house at 6:00 for the hike.  But then he kissed me on the very top of my head, so I don't think that he is too angry.  He is a sweet man.  (I woke up Sonia too.  oops.)   There are 4 others in the house: Marla, Chaly, Pedro-Jose, and Marla's daughter Luisa, although Mili and her daughter Stephanie eat lunch here.  I think that Marla, Chaly, and Mili might be siblings, and that Pedro-Jose is their cousin (I think that he is living here while attending University).  They are all very nice, and laugh SO much amongst themselves, but I can almost never understand.   Luisa has slowly started to play with my hair again when here mom isn't in the room.  Generally, there is a lot of yelling in the house, which is somewhat unsettling, as my parents don't really yell...at all, but I am trying to get used to it!  I mostly just see my family at meal times, as they all seem so busy and I don't like to be in the way (me...worry?).   Sometimes I bring my homework to the kitchen, just to present the opportunity to see someone! 

This past week:

photo by Sandra

Last Sunday, we went to Momostenango (45 min. drive) and saw the transformation of sheep wool into rugs and blankets.  I feel like we have lost something in our culture...a foundational knowledge about where things come from.  Her spinning wheel was simple and wooden.  An old shoe sole helped keep tension at one end...so creative.  She uses leaves, berries, and bark boiled in water with lime for dye.  She claims that the colours never run, nor fade.  Her whole family works with her, taking turns so that they can go to school as well.  After our tour, Thelma made us tortilla and egg sandwiches.  I also tried to make tortillas, but the dough is very sticky, and mine never worked.  After showing me several times, she brought out a "tortilla press".  Oh well.  I ate my holey creation. 

Monday: I am sorry.  I don't remember.  I may have gone to the market, and/or taken a nap or something. 

Tuesday: We went to a chocolate factory.  The factory has been in the family for generations, and our host, the owner, was so wonderful.  She was a short, Mayan woman who wore traditional clothing, and had long braided hair.   After giving us a history on cocoa (which I don't remember unfortuantely) she gave us a demonstation: grinding the cocoa beans, mixing the paste with sugar and a little bit of ground vanilla.  She then mixed it with hot water, and we had hot chocolate.  She goes to the finca and buys the beans because they are better there than in the market.   I guess that her chocolate is world famous, and that she has travelled to the States and Germany because of it.  It was exciting to see an independent, successful Guatemalan business.  (Guatemalans seem to be proud people and support their own, be it Pollo Campero fast food or beer).

Wednesday: I locked my key in my room, which wasn't a good start to the day, as I didn't have my books, my raincoat, or any money, and my teacher and I were going to Totonicapan for their feria.  oops.  You should have seen the look on my host mom's face when I told her.  double oops.  It ended okay though as she found a spare.  ,The fair in Toto was pretty much the same as in Xela, but it was good to see the countryside.  (Wednesday was my Grandma's birthday too :)

Thursday: We hiked up to the Vahos which are steam baths (sauna) over an hours walk up from the city.  I thought it was swimming or I would not have gone ;)  I'm happy for my ignorance because the hike up was so beautiful, with great views of the city country...good exercise too!  "Xelamap" describes the Vahos Steam Baths as Natural Saunas fueled by veins of volcanic heat....  It was good to get out of the city.

photo by Sandra

Friday: Friday at 8 (or more like after 9) was the Cena (supper) Internacional.  This was an activity my first week but really was too overwhelmed to participate.  This time, however, 2 other students and I went to the supermarket, and the street market, and bought supplies...how things changed in 3 weeks!  The kitchen was SO busy, but a really good time (even though much english was spoken...).  The supper lasted until 11:30...the director of the school and 2 teachers ate with us and conversation turned back into a spanish (with a lot of added laughter).  Oh, so many dirty dishes were left over, but the director said to leave them...I don't really understand this "students don't do dishes" policy, but I am afraid that I am going to get used to it!

Saturday: 3 of us went to the tree nursury to check out ICA's reforestation project.  The man working at the project told us about the different types of trees in the nursury, and uprooted some "baby trees" so that we could transplant them in little black bags to grow individually.  After we went part way up a hill (because we were tired) and planted 4-5 cypress tress each.  It was a solid way to spend Saturday morning!  Saturday afternoon was spent with friends, as one of the girls was leaving to work on a coffee farm...a hard thing about ICA is that people come and go...it was a good afternoon though :)

Sunday:  Today!  I woke up this morning at 5:15 and was at the school by 6:00 to meet for a hike to Laguna de Chicabal - a lake on top of the Volcano Chicabal, considered sacred by the Mam Maya.  Jungle, vines, mysterious fog (which sets in incredibly fast), birds, beautiful views, fields, mud, water-eroded roads, and wonderful Israeli tourists - the Laguna was well worth it.  I wish that my pictures could Guatemala justice, but you will just have to use your imagination.  The smell in the country is fresh and wet.  The dirt is light brown with smatterings of white-ish sand.  The fog is so dense that it makes your hair wet; the trees are vibrant and green when it is sunny, but slowly fade to green (up close) to white (in the background) when there is fog. 

Guatemala is such a beautiful country; it's incredible.  I wonder if it would still be familiar in a couple of years...

 words:

darse cuenta: to realize

cosechar: to harvest

reto: challenge

riesgo: risk

                                                                     resbaloso: slippery (like the mud road up to Laguna Chicabal)

Planting, Settling, Growing, Elements, Time

It is a cool night, but the rain has stopped, and the city lights shine rather brightly behind the thin haze of water particles and air pollution.  My room is cosy, and while I could have gone out, I am glad for this chance just to be alone and quiet.  I feel like the week was fast-forwarded to the end, and yet when I think of the individual days, it seems like they were lived in another era.  Still, I am starting to think that three months is going to go very quickly.  I will have to be careful not to tell myself, "It's okay, I'll do it later." because later doesn't always exist!  I guess that that is something that I should practice in everyday living, not just in "everyday living" in Guatemala. 

Hmm, Guatemala.  A friend from ICA and I were walking down by Parque Central, and a marimba band was playing on a stage in celebration of ... well, something about an "arcangel", with firecrackers going off in the background, and pigeons flying off in escape.  It could be the time of year I showed up, but fiestas (parties) don't seemed to be carefully rationed out; instead, people are looking for reasons to celebrate.  It is an interesting atmosphere, one of excitement and pride, if not for country, then for city.  My teacher last week told me of a student who asked her teacher if he was a Guatemalteco.  The teacher, who was indeed Guatemalan, answered "NO!  I'm Xelan!"  I met someone the other day who said that they liked Canada, to which I responded, "muy bien (very good)" or something like that.  They corrected me and told me that I should say "gracias".  (They complemented MY country; I should take that personally!)  Isn't that an interesting perspective?

So far, I have enjoyed the opportunities ICA has given us to gain perspective.  So far, I think that some of the activities are meant to make us feel like we are contributing something to the community, but mostly I think we are meant to be learning.  (Let the activities continue!)

Monday, the school played a movie that was produced in Guatemala, called VIP, focusing on corruption and prison life (in a Guatemalan prison), but there were no subtitles and it was the 2nd movie in a series, so the 2 of us there didn't really get a whole lot from it.  It was a serious movie, but sometimes I just had to chuckle at the absurdity of our cluelessness as to what was happening. 

 (Photo by Ina)

Tuesday, 4 of us chose to have class in the afternoon so that we could go to Fuentes Georginas (a series of hot springs) to plant some trees during the morning.  The springs had been damaged by Tormenta Agatha and heavy rains had taken its toll on the roads leading up to the springs as well.  In some places, only half of the highway remained, because the other half fell off the cliff.  The springs, part of a natural reserve, were closed to the public due to reparations.  Our guide, Marcelo, led us up the mountain (although potentially a volcano?), where we ate our breakfast, and then started our task of planting the ceders in the rich, damp soil.  Enrique, the school director, talked to us about roots that could be used for dying clothes; Marcelo showed us mushrooms that we could eat.  I got very muddy, trying to secure the ceders into their new home...oops; everyone else seemed to stay somewhat "clean". It was so good though.  I wish you could have been there.  Vines were hanging down from the branches, the air lush and fresh; you could see the steam rising from the springs below us, and the fog slowly set in.  Enrique stopped us partway down the trail, and had Marcelo share with us about his

(Ina)

experiences in the civil war, and his connections with the indigineous people.  I wish I could have understood, but my wandering mind only caught bits.  It takes so much concentration to put sentences together...even so, I don't think the experience was lacking.  After our mountain excursion, we were able to have a modified hotsprings experience, as there were some baths we could use as hot tubs in some retreat houses.  The water smelled like sulfur, so it's legit, right :)  Our way home was bumpy as we experienced the "tumulos" (major speed-bumps) which I have heard so much about.  There was a little bit of mud that caused some concern, but we got through.  It was beautiful driving through the countryside.  One student made the comment that he had missed seeing Guatemala, as he had lived in the city the whole time.  The hillsides, once all forested, are now used for agriculture, which is causing major erosion problems...but it's hard to know what else people can do to eat ...    If you are in Xela, take this drive.

 

Guess who left their camera in the city?  Photo taken by Ina



Wednesday afternoon we went to the women's prison, right in town.  One visitor and her daughter(?) brought a chicken, which was a new idea to some of us. In general, I really had no idea what to expect at the prison, and I don't know how it compares with other prisions, so I don't know how much I learned, but it was good just to be there.  Edwin, one of our teachers, planned out activities, and brought cake and coca cola. All the women were so engaged and laughed so hard.  One of the activities was for the women to write out their dreams, many of which were to take care of their own children again.  One of the volunteer opporunties with the school is to work at the prison.  Our time with the women was so fun, and Edwin did a really good job of planning relevent activities, but I think that volunteering, especially with a language barrier, could be tough.  You can pray for the girl who is working there now, as well as for opportunities to connect, inspiration for activities, and encouragement for others who are thinking of spending time with the women in the prison. 

After our time at the prison, Ina (friend at ICA) and I browsed the market a bit, but they were packing things away, so we headed home, not too long after. 

I went to class at 7:30 on Thursday so that we could end class early and attend the procession for the Patron Saint of Xela at Parque Central.  Bands, batonistas, widows, altar girls, priests, a carpet in honour of the Virgen made of grain, paint, grass, and I am not sure what else, vendors selling icecream, cotton candy and wind twirly things were all present!  Even though this was a "short parade", it didn't seem to be lacking anything (especially not firecrackers...they were there in excess)!  It was so good to have my teacher there to explain things.   She is happy that the parades are now done so that the bands will stop practicing in the afternoon!





Friday night I went to a church fundraiser supper...I am not exactly sure what for.  The church is made up of young people;  the church rents a space in a basically non-functioning mall.  It was so good to be there... I spent most of my time talking in "Spanish" with a girl from the States who has been working in Guatemala for over 1.5 years.  Besides being a relaxing time emotionally, it turned out to be a good spanish practice time too, as I wasn't SO nervous speaking with another Anglophone (mistakes still happen, don't get me wrong), but at least words came out!  so good. 

And today is Saturday, and tomorrow is Sunday!  (I did find my way to church last Sunday, although not the one I was expecting to attend!  On my hour long journey to find the Lutheran church, I stumbled across a "Prince of Peace" congregation, which was good, because it didn't seem like the Lutheran church was open...)  Tomorrow the school is supposed to go to Momostenango to see how wool blankets are produced; we'll see if it is a go after all of this rain! 

I forgot your Spanish words last week.  Sorry.   Here are some for this week:

Paraguas - umbrella (undecorated)

Niebla - fog 

Agujero - hole

Pedazo - piece

La única vez - the only time

Manga - sleeve    

With love,
Erin

  



above: Road to Fuentes Georginas (Ina)
below: a random road

above: Road to Fuentes Georginas (Ina)
below: Parque Central