Saturday, October 30, 2010

¡Te Catché! (I caught you!)

There are many anglicisms in español, "catch" included.  It is time for me to play some "catch up".  The past couple weeks have run away on me! 

The week after visiting the comadrona, we went to the Lago de Atitlan for the weekend, and the following week, I visited a public, primary school in the morning, and had spanish classes in the afternoon.  Studying from 2-7 is so much harder than 8-1, and made for some funny classes...I was brain tired each day, and NEVER could get the day right.  My last day of classes, I got everything right, until I said that it was 2009.  My teacher thought I was witty...not so.  I liked being busy and the students in the school were so amable (likeable, friendly, lovely - the word in spanish fits better)!  It was their last week of clases (they study from the middle of January - mid October), but they welcomed me in anyway, including me in their closing activities.  I taught a bit of english one day, observed another ICA student teach english, listened to their year-end presentations, and went kite-flying!  SO MUCH FUN!

In the past couple of weeks, I have had random, "I love Guatemala" moments.  (Of course, there are the opposite as well, but they seem to be much fewer :)  One of these "I love Guatemala" moments was in the field just on the edge of the city, on the uneven soccer field, with the volcanoes in the background, trying incredibly hard to get the kite to stay in the air, children screaming in support "Hale!!! (pull).  We also worked a bit in the vivero (tree nursury).  I guess the students go once a month to pull weeds.  They were so efficient...me, not so much, but they would come through and do quality control in my section, encouraging me that my side was clean (limpio).  The girls picked flowers for my hair, took hundreds of pictures on my camera, encouraged me to run with their kites.  One boy gifted to me 2 of his homemade barriletes (kites)...SO KIND!  It is normal for them to make their own kites...NEVER, have I made a kite that has flown, but now I want to try! 

That weekend, we visited a coffee finca, and took a trip to the playa (beach)!  It is quite a bit warmer at the coast, and the black sand (from the volcanoes) is HOT!  I saw some poplar like trees on the way to the beach, and I thought of home.  It is funny what will remind you...

That week, I just took classes, and participated in some activities...

That weekend, I went to Mexico with some friends for a couple of days.  We ALL got another 90 days in our passports!  YES!

This week, I also had clases in the morning.  Monday afternoon, another ICA student, Sandra, and I taught our first English class, and have 5 weeks more.  Only one student showed up, and poor Roberto, got too much information!  We had 5 students Tuesday.  We didn´t teach Wednesday, because we went to the graduation ceremonies at a Mayan-Mam - Spanish bilingual school in a town 1.5 hours away.  ICA helped support the school when it was starting.  While the idea of teaching a Mayan language was ridiculed in the beginning, the school is now recognized as a "model school".  Thursday, our students (who sixth graders are from the primary school that I visited) had their own graduation (graduating primary school is kind of a big deal, as not all students have the opportunity to continue.  Students need to take an exam to be accepted into secondary school).  Every Friday, the students are going to have a different teacher, so we didn´t teach, and Monday (all Saint´s Day = big deal) is a holiday.  Therefore, TUESDAY, I hope that there will be even more students! 

Vivero

Homemade Barrilete

Cafe

Volcano in eruption!

Town of Zunil...many organic vegetables are grown in this valley.

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

¡Recuerdo!

I remember! (FRENCH!  I am speaking more and more in French...it wasn´t present my first month, but now, here it is, and I don´t know why.)  Also.  I remember what we did last wednesday.  Well, someone reminded me. 

Last wednesday...

we went to a comadrona´s (mid-wife) house.  Incredible.  She knows so much, and unlike the private hospitals, she works to serve the women.  I was semi-shocked to learn that if the doctor´s think that a family has money, they will make up complications; suggest a c-section, which cost more money...and therefore make more money.  The comadrona we visited is 37 years old, and has 4 children (I think).  She uses both natural herbs, and ¨chemical¨ medicines to help her pacients.  She also strongly believes in steam baths and masages.  She knows what each plant does, and when she should use them....  She pulled up a weed growing beside the house in her dirt patio.  She rubbed the plant between her fingers to release it´s odor, and passed it around.  I think that the plant acts as a relaxant, but I can´t remember... it is not incredibly creative or innovative, using these plants... It is just using wisely what is around you, what has been gifted to you in your space.  I wish I knew as much about the plants and their potencial uses in Alberta.  I went to a primary school every morning last week to observe what public school is like.  My last day, we went to fly kites (which they made themselves) in a ¨nearby¨ field.  On the way, one of the students was telling me what some of the plants were for.  There may not receive computation or english classes, but they are so wise in other ways.  Too bad the world doesn´t really reward this type of knowledge in Guatemalan students.  It is so important.   

Bye

I don't know how they write it in spanish, but everyone says "bye" a lot! 

1.  I am walking down the crooked, cobblestone street, and some young girls walking on the sidewalk with their mother see that I am an extranjero and they call out to me, "bye!" 
      - That seems kind of normal for me.  I try to speak the language of extranjeros that I meet.
2.  I tell my "mother" Sonia, that I will not be eating supper en casa tonight.  She smiles, gives me a kiss on the cheek, and says, "bye mamita".  (Okay, thanks for letting me know?)
3.  Sonia serves me dinner; I thank her.  "Bye" (Your welcome?)
4.  Carlos doesn't have enough money to buy eggs; Sonia becomes determined to find some dinero en efective (cash).  "Bye". 
5.  I get a grammatical concept in one of my classes.  "Bye".  Good, and moving on to the next grammatical concept. 
6. I am leaving the house.  Usually, it is adios o hasta luego, but I have heard "bye" a few times as well...especially when saying good-bye on the phone.
7.  We are at the market.  We settle on the price for a pinapple.  "Bye".

Generally, I think that it is a "word of conclusion".  "Ok".  "Situation resolved".  "Next, please.", but when learning a language, figuring out the nuances of where these words fit, seems slightly challenging. 

So far, I haven't aquired "bye" skills, but it would be lovely if I did in the next six weeks!

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

How time flies!

Hola Chicos,

Time has run away on me!  I am going to write down quickly what I did each day, perhaps more for my own memory, than for your interest... hope that I can remember! 

Sunday - Laguna de Chicabal, Artisan´s market, Blue Angel Cafe for pineapple smoothies.
Monday - Lecture on the Mayas and temples that are being uncovered
Tuesday - Trip to Salcaja to see the oldest church in Central America, Caldo de Frutas (strong alcoholic beverage...of which I only had a tiny sip!), and seeing a bit about how how the thread for traditional clothing is prepared
Wednesday - I cannot remember...

Thursday - Went to another procession for the Virgen, and walked around the church.
Friday - Preparation of Pupusas, and of course, eating them together
Saturday - Trip to Lago de Atitlan, boat ride on the lake, swim in the lake (a weird combination of hot spring hot, and cool), San Antonio (visited women´s cooperatives who make clothes), and Santiago (where we visited an idol called San Simon...people go to him to ask for blessings and curses..., hiked a very small mountain, witnessed a pagan ceremony at the top, and visited a mask museum)
Sunday - Visited the market in Chichicastenango and then returned home...

Well, the pausa is almost done...so I should go...will write more later!

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Ramblings - a different look

This was originally part of my "Familiarity" post, but it got quite long!  My mind started to wander after talking about the "cottage industry" type business' in Momostenango...and these meanderings are part of my experience.  I am not good at thinking objectively, and my thoughts are rough and quick, still if you have insight or wisdom, I would be interested in hearing (gaining!) it!



There is an opportunity for students to work in a women's prision, here in Xela, with the idea that the students can teach something to the women that will help them when they leave. Another opportunity is working in a local school as a teacher (although in two weeks school is over). I was trying to think of skills that I could teach. I have a high quality education, but as I stood in my room, looking at my clock, I could remember anything. It could be that my education is so engrained, that it is a part of me, or perhaps it would come back if I reviewed. I don't know. It is justs interesting that I am so priviledged, and yet have little "easily accessible" knowledge or skills to offer. I am not complaining, and I am so glad that I went to school, even if I don't remember the facts; it is just interesting, the contrast between hands-on (Momostenango) and the desk-focused learning that I experienced. Both are important, although I think that one sometimes dominates, depending on where you live.
...and some children don't have school at all. Public school exists in Guatemala, but parents still have to pay for supplies and uniforms, and the quality of education is not high, even though the teachers are paid well. Many parents send their children to a colegio which can get expensive, but the education is better. In my classes, there is often a large "conversation" component. This week, my maestra and I talked a bit about child-exploitation in Guatemala as I asked her about her take on buying from children in the park. It was interesting to hear a Guatemalteco's perspective, and she was very blunt about the existence of this issue. Obviously generalizations are just that, general ideas - not 100% accurate. It seems that parents love their children, but sometimes there just isn't enough money if the children don't work. For this reason, you will see children set up in the park with a basket full of gum, chocolate bars, and ciagrettes. No school. My maestra says that she buys if she needs what they are selling. Other children will simply ask for money, which she said is a "red flag" for exploitation. Just the other day, a boy (maybe 7 years old), came up to us in a restaurant, introduced himself and asked us our names...that doesn't really happen in Tofield. I went to the Feria in Totonicapan (45 min) on Wednesday and saw many children and older gentlemen with disabilities. One man was pushing a stroller with two young girls (with disabilities) asking for money. There is a feria in Xela this week as well to celebrate the patron saint. I saw him here as well. My maestra said that the only way things are going to change is for the government to do something. It makes you think though, what part Canada has to play as well. Between language schools, clothing, coca-cola, mcdonalds, coffee, hot chocolate, bananas ... the western world is not far separated from Guatemala or its citizens. This isn't a lecture. It just is. I knew it before I came, but a change (improving living standards here) is going to need more than the GUATEMALA government passing a law. oops. sorry. really, not a lecture...just observations. The sad part is that I am not sure that I am ready to give up my Canadian lifestyle, be it in Canada or elsewhere.
Humans need connections...I think about how exciting it is to meet someone from your own country while abroad, yet while in your country, it doesn't really matter. Values are based on needs; in our own country, we do not "need" Canadian strangers or people from other countries; we "need" things, and thus our connection with other countries isn't often based on human relationships but rather commodities.

And isn't it is kind of absurd how we divide people according to geographical location, and some places have and some do not; some are treated like animals, and others like diamonds (which are really just rocks), and yet each person has a life (intertwined with everyone elses), and each is really - human.  Eek...Sounds cheesy, but in reality, I don't think it is.  (Being helpless in globalization scheme?  hmm.)  Perhaps I think that it may be easier just to live and not to think.

Familiarity

A bridge for KS
Oh how I wish that you could know Guatemala; I want to know it so much better.  Being here sometimes feels like a dream, and other times I feel all too awake, and humbled, but both are good.  Things are becoming more familiar, which is nice.  While was walking to Parque Central this evening to meet a friend  at the artisans' market (which only happens on the first Sunday of every month), I passed this old Victorian house.  I don't know the story behind it, but I am glad that I know where it is.  Near a cafe called Blue Angel, there is this old stone bridge.  It doesn't really serve much of a purpose anymore, but it is old and beautiful, and I like it very much.  We'll walk on it if you come! 
Familiar is good, but it is also easy to fall into a stagnent comfort zone, and stop exploring.  I don't want this to happen.  If you have the energy, could you keep me accountable? 

School:

Language studies are good, but slow.  In class, we are reviewing grammatical concepts that I learned in Canada, but I can't use them well [yet].  I feel like vocabulary doesn't stick, and I cannot understand my family.  I don't like feeling like a slow learner; I want results now!  Poco a poco though, right?  Still, I want to come back to Canada being able to communicate, and I don't know if that will happen.  I think that vulnerability, humility, and patience are the underlying themes of language studies...good, so good.  It really isn't bad; I am learning, and I love it... it just takes time...

                                                                 Family:
I want to introduce you to my family!  Unfortunately, I can't really, as I am not really sure who is related to who.  Hmm.  Sonia is my host mom.  She is wonderful, and tells me not to worry during every meal, as I pull in my chair to make more space, or ask about how to help.  I never do dishes anymore...it could be that I wasted to much water, and am thus banned, but who knows?  Either way, I am spoiled.  Sonia always makes me supper, which usually is eggs and refried black beans with french bread.  Me gusta.  Carlos is Sonia's brother (I think).  Yesterday, I asked Carlos what the bird's name is (which I don't remember), but Carlos thought that I asked what his name was (which I very well may have)...poor Carlos thought I didn't know his name.  At lunch today, he said that he got up at 6:00 am today, with a half-teasing, have not so teasing look...oops, my fault, as I left the house at 6:00 for the hike.  But then he kissed me on the very top of my head, so I don't think that he is too angry.  He is a sweet man.  (I woke up Sonia too.  oops.)   There are 4 others in the house: Marla, Chaly, Pedro-Jose, and Marla's daughter Luisa, although Mili and her daughter Stephanie eat lunch here.  I think that Marla, Chaly, and Mili might be siblings, and that Pedro-Jose is their cousin (I think that he is living here while attending University).  They are all very nice, and laugh SO much amongst themselves, but I can almost never understand.   Luisa has slowly started to play with my hair again when here mom isn't in the room.  Generally, there is a lot of yelling in the house, which is somewhat unsettling, as my parents don't really yell...at all, but I am trying to get used to it!  I mostly just see my family at meal times, as they all seem so busy and I don't like to be in the way (me...worry?).   Sometimes I bring my homework to the kitchen, just to present the opportunity to see someone! 

This past week:

photo by Sandra
Last Sunday, we went to Momostenango (45 min. drive) and saw the transformation of sheep wool into rugs and blankets.  I feel like we have lost something in our culture...a foundational knowledge about where things come from.  Her spinning wheel was simple and wooden.  An old shoe sole helped keep tension at one end...so creative.  She uses leaves, berries, and bark boiled in water with lime for dye.  She claims that the colours never run, nor fade.  Her whole family works with her, taking turns so that they can go to school as well.  After our tour, Thelma made us tortilla and egg sandwiches.  I also tried to make tortillas, but the dough is very sticky, and mine never worked.  After showing me several times, she brought out a "tortilla press".  Oh well.  I ate my holey creation. 







Monday: I am sorry.  I don't remember.  I may have gone to the market, and/or taken a nap or something. 

Tuesday: We went to a chocolate factory.  The factory has been in the family for generations, and our host, the owner, was so wonderful.  She was a short, Mayan woman who wore traditional clothing, and had long braided hair.   After giving us a history on cocoa (which I don't remember unfortuantely) she gave us a demonstation: grinding the cocoa beans, mixing the paste with sugar and a little bit of ground vanilla.  She then mixed it with hot water, and we had hot chocolate.  She goes to the finca and buys the beans because they are better there than in the market.   I guess that her chocolate is world famous, and that she has travelled to the States and Germany because of it.  It was exciting to see an independent, successful Guatemalan business.  (Guatemalans seem to be proud people and support their own, be it Pollo Campero fast food or beer).

Wednesday: I locked my key in my room, which wasn't a good start to the day, as I didn't have my books, my raincoat, or any money, and my teacher and I were going to Totonicapan for their feria.  oops.  You should have seen the look on my host mom's face when I told her.  double oops.  It ended okay though as she found a spare.  ,The fair in Toto was pretty much the same as in Xela, but it was good to see the countryside.  (Wednesday was my Grandma's birthday too :)

Thursday: We hiked up to the Vahos which are steam baths (sauna) over an hours walk up from the city.  I thought it was swimming or I would not have gone ;)  I'm happy for my ignorance because the hike up was so beautiful, with great views of the city country...good exercise too!  "Xelamap" describes the Vahos Steam Baths as Natural Saunas fueled by veins of volcanic heat....  It was good to get out of the city.

photo by Sandra
Friday: Friday at 8 (or more like after 9) was the Cena (supper) Internacional.  This was an activity my first week but really was too overwhelmed to participate.  This time, however, 2 other students and I went to the supermarket, and the street market, and bought supplies...how things changed in 3 weeks!  The kitchen was SO busy, but a really good time (even though much english was spoken...).  The supper lasted until 11:30...the director of the school and 2 teachers ate with us and conversation turned back into a spanish (with a lot of added laughter).  Oh, so many dirty dishes were left over, but the director said to leave them...I don't really understand this "students don't do dishes" policy, but I am afraid that I am going to get used to it!

Saturday: 3 of us went to the tree nursury to check out ICA's reforestation project.  The man working at the project told us about the different types of trees in the nursury, and uprooted some "baby trees" so that we could transplant them in little black bags to grow individually.  After we went part way up a hill (because we were tired) and planted 4-5 cypress tress each.  It was a solid way to spend Saturday morning!  Saturday afternoon was spent with friends, as one of the girls was leaving to work on a coffee farm...a hard thing about ICA is that people come and go...it was a good afternoon though :)

Sunday:  Today!  I woke up this morning at 5:15 and was at the school by 6:00 to meet for a hike to Laguna de Chicabal - a lake on top of the Volcano Chicabal, considered sacred by the Mam Maya.  Jungle, vines, mysterious fog (which sets in incredibly fast), birds, beautiful views, fields, mud, water-eroded roads, and wonderful Israeli tourists - the Laguna was well worth it.  I wish that my pictures could Guatemala justice, but you will just have to use your imagination.  The smell in the country is fresh and wet.  The dirt is light brown with smatterings of white-ish sand.  The fog is so dense that it makes your hair wet; the trees are vibrant and green when it is sunny, but slowly fade to green (up close) to white (in the background) when there is fog. 
Guatemala is such a beautiful country; it's incredible.  I wonder if it would still be familiar in a couple of years...


 words:
darse cuenta: to realize
cosechar: to harvest
reto: challenge
riesgo: risk
                                                                     resbaloso: slippery (like the mud road up to Laguna Chicabal)